Saturday, May 21, 2011

Things I have learned so far...

In one week of being here, almost exactly, I have learned a lot already.
Not only the difference between a Black bear and a Brown bear and their attacks but about seriously EVERYTHING.

Start out with my work place: Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge is 923,000 acres but technically only around 700,000 are refuge land. They were established in 1980 as part of ANILCA- Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act. This federally protected over 100 million acres of land in Alaska- doubling the ENTIRE amount of National Park and Refuge land. DOUBLING! It also tripled the entire countries wilderness lands. So this one little act, for one little (big) state, signed in 1980 by a president you don't hear too much about (Jimmy Carter) did monumental things to our "environmental" politics. The reason this was put into effect was due to the battles between development and conservation in Alaska, in Tetlin NWR sense it has a lot to do with subsistence. When Alaska became a state in 1959 the government owned the whole state, including everything the native Alaskan's had done beforehand, and allowed people to stake out land claims for commercial use. This started impeding on the native land which had a value other than commercial use- they argued that it was not fair for people to claim their already claimed land. And requested a treaty or act of congress with a Native titleholders to be formed. Native Alaskan's up here are nothing like Indians in the lower 48, they do not live on reservations nor do they flourish in casinos. The land that they were finally granted with ANCSA (Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act) was for living. They still live off the land, they still raise their families and they still follow through with much of the traditional lifestyle passed down by their elders. Speaking of Alaskan Natives- I live with Indians. Not Eskimos. There are different tribes of Alaskan Natives just like down in the 48. Eskimos predominately live closer to the shore whereas Indians lived in the interior. I live with the Athabascan tribe who call Northway, AK their home. They carry a rich tradition and are known for their beautiful bead work, which I am learning how to do!
Things Alaska does not have: snakes or ticks. But their mosquitoes are considered their second State Bird and they have Brown Recluse spiders starting to winter here.

It is not as cold as everyone thinks. It hit 70 a few days ago- pretty sure that is warmer than it was in Illinois. BUT during the winter yes it is cold. The days also change drastically, normally when I get up around 5:30 or 6am it is chilly and by mid day it is hot. Yesterday it was overcast all day and COLD! Right when the sun came out it was hot as hell.

Food is expensive. A box of lucky charms cost me like $6! Gas isn't as bad as we all think- it is $4.29 in certain spots in town.

Everything to me is far away, to them it is no big deal. Tok, the main town by me is like 55 miles from Northway... that is pretty damn far to have to go grocery shopping, but everyone is used to it.

It keeps you on your toes, which is why I kind of like it. Most people don't have to go outside to go to the bathroom but I do... and I have to be aware that at 3am when I am half asleep there might be a bear outside my cabin- just imagine every time you walk to your car you have to keep your eyes out for something black or brown slinking around you. I also have to be aware of elk, moose, and bears running in front of my truck. I also have to have good situational awareness constantly because of the possibility of a forest fire is eminent here (it is very dry and lightening strikes are common).

They don't move as fast as we do. Their lives are a bit more calmer and not as rushed. Chit chatting at the gas station for a while is no big deal. Going exactly the speed limit or less is all too common... which kills me since I am not suppose to pass people in a government vehicle. Many of the people I work with do not have running water (including myself still) and either filter their water out of the lake or drive all the way into Tok to use the public use water. With that being said, my hygiene level is perfectly acceptable and actually it is funny to them that people shower once or more a day. The mosquitoes don't bother you as much and why waste all that water.

I have to speak EXTREMELY highly of people who reside in Alaska. These are some of the roughest, coolest and committed people I have ever met. As they have explained to me, this state weeds out the weak ones very quickly. These people are committed to not only their jobs, but their families, spouses and the words that come out of their mouth. Something you don't seem to find too often with people anymore, which really irks me. They are all armed and dangerous. They can easily survive in conditions that would just make most people I know cringe. I love it. I love this state and all it stands for. The women are all down to earth and have managed to survive without a hairdresser, a mall and a nail salon. Thank the lord.

Alaska is the number 1 state when it comes to drownings and 90% of the people who drown in Alaska are adult men. Sad to say but many of the people who live inland do not know how to swim. They also have alcohol involved a lot of times or they are too macho to wear their personal flotation devices. As well as sometimes men are the ones out getting the food and doing man things... not all the time though, I have seen some pretty rough women.

So far- all is well in the land of the midnight sun.


That would be the storm that took my power out and tricked my alarm clock into waking me up like 2 hours early.

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